A study has just come out confirming what many climbers already know: summiting mountains as high as Africa’s Mt. Kilimanjaro involves a high risk of acute mountain sickness, and steady acclimatization before the final ascent is the best guard against it.
The study appears in the current issue of High Altitude Medicine & Biology, a peer-reviewed journal published by Mary Ann Liebert. Researchers at the University of Edinburgh (Scotland) and Muhimbili University College of Health Science (Tanzania) evaluated the incidence of AMS among trekkers of Africa’s highest peak by comparing the effects of three increasingly difficult and rapid ascent routes, the option of a single rest day during the climb, and use by a sub-group of climbers of prophylactic acetazolamide.
The authors reported a similar rate of AMS among climbers regardless of drug use, a finding most climbers already know anecdotally. More surprising is that a mid-climb rest day did not seem to have an affect on AMS, although we’d argue it has an affect on physical and mental stamina. The only way the researchers found to protect against AMS, given the risk of it is so high, is to acclimatize before final ascent, which is precisely why it’s so important to take things one day at a time.
In the report, the researchers found: At 2743
m 3% of the 177 climbers recruited at this altitude had AMS. Following headache, the commonest symptom reported on LLS sheets was fatigue (38%). At 4730m, sleep disturbance was the commonest symptom described (82%). 47% of the 189 climbers on all itineraries were AMS positive.
Climbing Kilimanjaro is no joke. Slow and steady definitely wins the race.
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Some like to put it this way: The mountain decides. And because so little is known about the high-altitude illness that claims the most lives at high altitude, the legend lives on. Because HAPE (high-altitude pulmonary edema) can strike anyone, without warning, on any climb.
Kathleen, who at 55 had been training for eight months with her niece Kami to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro with Embark this past August, at first exhibited no symptoms that, without emergency treatment, she might have died up there. She was, quite simply, tired.
It really didn’t get tough until day three of the climb. Day one, they hiked from roughly 7,000 feet to 9,000, and again on day two they made it up to 11,000 feet. But on the third day, which involved another 2,000-foot climb in altitude, Kathleen, who had noticed exerting more effort with each passing day, was beginning to feel tired enough to wonder whether she’d summit:
When we got to 13,000 the third day, we got there in the afternoon, and I just felt tired. I didn’t have trouble breathing, I was just tired and glad to get there and relax. It felt like an effort to get to our tent. I remember talking to my niece in the mess tent and saying, “So what if I can’t make this?” At that point I was thinking it was more of a mental push, because I could see it getting progressively more difficult.
On day four, as they set out toward Lava Tower on the steepest part of the climb thus far, Kathleen began to really struggle. Steve, the assistant guide, noticed right away, and offered to carry her daypack. It couldn’t have been more than 10 pounds, and the fact that not having to carry it felt so good was a sign that Kathleen was really starting to struggle.
About an hour before reaching the tower, Kathleen was having to stop regularly. There was no scramble, but to Kathleen the grade felt steeper and steeper. And when they finally made it, all she could think of was lying down. But when she did, all she could do was cough, no matter what position she tried.
Later that night, after dinner and games, Kathleen went back to her tent to try again for quality sleep. But, she says:
It was the same thing. As soon as I laid down–just coughing, coughing. Terrible coughing. As the night wore on it got worse. I got up at 1 in the morning and felt really tired going 20 yards to the bathroom tent. I went back in and found that the only way to get relief was to lie on my stomach and prop myself up on my arms. I woke up a half hour later and my arms were killing me.
At 4 a.m., Kathleen had to get up and go to the bathroom again, and at that point she was so fatigued and worried about having bronchitis that she woke up Freddie, the head guide. What kept throwing everyone off the HAPE trail was that Kathleen was only experiencing fatigue and cough, without the very common nausea and headaches most people have to suffer through. But Freddie played it safe, put her on oxygen, and said they’d have to wait for dawn to head down.
At first light Kathleen had to say goodbye to her niece Kami and head down the mountain, with Freddie carrying her oxygen tank. It was tough to see the disappointment in Kami’s eyes, to know that Kami now had to push ahead on her own, but Kathleen was so exhausted she knew there was just no other way:
The assistant guide Steve came into my tent and packed for me. Kami of course is really sad that she has to go without me. And they gave me more oxygen. He measured our PO2 every day, and he would measure morning and night. It’s a measurement of how much oxygen your blood is carrying, so how much energy you have, and if everything is normal it’s 100 percent. Sometimes in the morning it would be 80, 84, just because you haven’t been moving yet. And that morning, mine was at 54. And when I came home my nephew said people are comatose at 50.
When she coughed up the color orange, Freddie knew for sure it was HAPE, but by this time they were almost back down to the emergency vehicle that would take them to Moshi.
“I’m not feeling bad about it now,” Kathleen says today, just a month after her return. “I had a great adventure.” Kathleen got to spend eight months preparing with her niece; got to travel to Africa; got to see the joy in Kami’s face when she came down from the summit. And she still gets to tell people she climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro. She just didn’t quite make it all the way.
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Over the weekend, travel writer Shawn Donley featured Embark Adventures in The Oregonian as the best way for Portlanders to find a local guide up Mt. Kilimanjaro. He has this to say of Embark founder Donovan Pacholl:
The Tanzanian government requires all climbs to be guided and supported. If you’re looking for a local option, I doubt you’ll find anyone in Oregon who knows Kilimanjaro as well as Donovan Pacholl. He spent several years living at the base of the mountain and in 2003 helped establish the Kilimanjaro Porters Assistance Project. He now runs Embark Adventures (www.embarkadventures.com), which specializes in climbs up the beautiful Lemosho route.
Props also to Donley’s second local pick, Nicole Apelian’s Trackers International. She leads nature lovers on trips to Botswana’s Okavango Delta.
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With fewer than 10 percent of climbers on the trail and potential to see a variety of wildlife on the first day through dense jungle, the Lemosho Route is Embark’s favorite and most frequent way to enter the mountain. At 72 km (almost 45 miles), the longer route allows for more thorough acclimatization, resulting in a higher success rate from start to finish.
Starting on the western edge of the mountain, Lemosho is considered the route of rich flora and wildlife, with great side treks across the Shira Plateau and up to Moir Hut – from which climbers encounter some of the mountain’s most dramatic views. The Lemosho Route is also the best approach to the Western Breach, and the best way for those who want to enjoy each step of the way with the greater certainty that they’ll make the summit.
After five days up the Lemosho Route, the Western Breach offers the only ascent up the Western side of Kilimanjaro, and is one of the most demanding and impressive non-technical climbs chosen only by mountaineering-style companies. The scrambles and exposures up parts of the breach make this the least-trafficked and most rewarding way up the mountain. While most mountaineers choose the Western Breach with competent guides like Embark, less than 5 percent of the total climbers on Kilimanjaro take this route.
An optional stop is Crater Camp, perched high at 18,000 feet and just an hour’s trek to the summit, so you don’t have to launch your bid at midnight. The final ascent can then be slow, with the most epic morning views. With time to explore the mountain’s glaciers, the Crater Camp Route creates the strongest sense of adventure, isolation and wilderness of all the ways up Kilimanjaro.
Known as the Whiskey Route, the popular Machame Route follows the old climbing adage, “climb high, sleep low,” combining the beauty of what might be the most stunning approach to Kilimanjaro’s summit with the speed of steeper paths and faster elevation gain. The summit is typically sunrise of day 6, with a steady descent into day 7, but a few do the climb in 5 or 6 days, depending on the group’s level of fitness.
At 67 km (almost 42 miles), the Machame Route is ideal for those who want to take the safest trip up the mountain in the shortest period of time while camping outdoors. Like Lemosho, the trail passes through five ecosystems, from dense forest and heather up through moorland, alpine desert, and finally, the glorious summit. Soak up breathtaking views of icecaps, forests, and the massive base of Africa’s highest giant.
Dubbed the “Coca-Cola” route, Marangu is considered the easiest, fastest (5 days), and most-trafficked way to the summit of Kilimanjaro. Those looking for serenity as they make their summit bid might find Marangu disappointing, as it can see hundreds of climbers at various stretches along the route.
Horombo Hut, at 3,720 meters, is more like a village and can fit 120 hikers, guides, and porters at a time. It is from the hut that most climbers make their summit bid at midnight, climbing eight hours to reach Uhuru Peak as the day breaks, only to turn around and head back down to Horombo before nightfall. With 14 hours of climbing in one day, Marangu is fast and easy until the end, when it turns into the most grueling ways to summit and descend.
The Rongai route approaches Kilimanjaro from the northeastern side of the mountain, along the border between Tanzania and Kenya. Because of the long drive down a difficult road, it sees relatively few groups and is for the climber who wants all quiet on the eastern front.
Experienced guides consider the Rongai route to be both easier and more scenic than the more-trafficked Marangu Trail, which it intersects on the final day. Most climbers descend Rongai via the Marangu route, totaling 65 km (roughly 40 miles). Some descend via Mweka. If you want an extra day on the mountain, which usually happens at camp Mawenzi Tarn, this is the route for you.
“Climbing Kilimanjaro and going on a safari was a dream of mine and Embark made it so much more than I could have imagined! We could tell our guides, cooks and porters were the best trained on the trail. I will never forget the care and friendship they offered us. Every detail was thought of and we felt safe. We enjoyed every aspect of the Tanzanian country, animals, mountain, culture and it’s people. So glad we found you! Thanks again!”
Kami N, July 2010
“I was very impressed with Embark. Their staff were professional but very caring. Their whole focus was to help us reach our dream of reaching the summit. They monitored us closely treated us like family, not just clients. The food was incredible – Joseph could be a chef in a fine restaurant. Even though I didn’t make it to the top, I would recommend Embark as the best company to go with. We compared notes with other hikers and without exception, our guides and support crew treated us and prepared us the best. “
Kathleen N, July 2010
“My adventure in Africa, and especially my climb of Kilimanjaro, was planned, organized and executed by Donovan Pacholl of Embark. The trip progressed flawlessly, and I couldn’t be happier that I chose Embark to be my adventure travel company. I would definitely travel with them again.”
Jim R, Feb 2010
“Embark Adventures with Donovan Pacholl as our leader truly provided a trip of a lifetime for me to Tanzania. Donovan organized our trek to the summit of Mt. Kilimanjaro, which everyone in our group reached successfully via the spectacular Western Breach route. He put together an unbelievable wildlife safari, which was beyond my expectations and arranged for us to visit several villages and interact with the local people. I can’t imagine that anyone else going to Tanzania could have had a more rich and unique adventure. The trip was simply amazing and a dream come true. Thank you, Donovan.”
Jann B, Feb 2010
“From start to finish, Embark handled every aspect of our climb with professionalism and aplomb. The guides were knowledgeable and friendly, the gear was top-notch and the meals on the mountain were the best we had in Africa. I’d happily recommend the company to anybody looking for a once-in-a-lifetime experience on Kilimanjaro.”
Erik J, Jan 2010
“Taking the less-beaten path, Embark sets itself apart from other tour providers on the mountain as a company that isn’t just about getting you up and down the mountain, but doing it in a way that would give the best experience. While other groups slogged through barren trails packed with other climbing groups, we spent most of the trip hiking in peace and quiet, soaking in the gorgeous landscape. Embark’s experience and professionalism and unique itinerary ensured that we would have the best chance to summit – my entire crew made it to the top!”
Ben H, Feb 2010
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Embark specializes in climbing Mt. Killimanjaro through the less-traveled Lemosho Route and up the Western Breach. The Lemosho route takes 4 to 5 days before it reaches the true base of the mountain, where the Western Breach section begins. This approach is the only one that travels up the western, steep side of Mt. Kilimanjaro.
The Western Breach is an alternative route off the Lemosho Route, and can be taken on the final two days prior to the summit. The breach is essentially a steep, 3,000-foot scramble (from 15,000 to 18,100 feet in altitude) done by less than 1 percent of the total Kili climbers. It’s only mildly dangerous (all mountain climbing is, right?), and is typically only done by mountaineering type companies boasting high caliber guides who, if needed, can kick steep, with an ice axe for 11 hours up a route that is not visible by the snow.
We truly believe the Lemosho and Western Breach combo is not only the best, most advanced non-technical route up Mt. Kilimanjaro, but it also affords many things that the average person climbing Mt. Kilimanjaro is not able to access using different routes. We are so committed to climbing this route up Mt. Kilimanjaro that we now lead this route exclusively.
There is a secret behind the Machame and Marangu routes that other outfitters do not share.
Less than 10 percent of the Kilimanjaro climbers come up the Lemosho Route and less than 1 percent up the Western Breach. Why?
First, the Lemosho Route is hard to get to. It’s a three-hour drive from Moshi on a bad road, and as such it is difficult and expensive to transport gear and people to this side of the mountain. There is a forest fee for reaching the start of the Lemosho Route that makes it more expensive for outfitters. They would prefer you to climb the easily-accessed route. We believe the more remote and difficult to get to, the better! After all, you’ve traveled thousands of miles for this.
On the Lemosho Route, you have to commit to spending more time on the mountain, as the Lemosho route is best done over eight days, whereas other routes requires only 7, 6, or even 5 days.
Should you climb up a 19,000-foot mountain in five days? Any mountaineer will tell you no. It is too high, too fast. You need to acclimatize your body in order to climb that high, and you have a much higher chance of success if you climb the Lemosho / Western Breach route and take a full day of rest at 15,000 feet.
Most of Mt. Kilimanjaro is essentially a big hill hike. You hike to 19,341 feet while walking. The Western Breach, however, is much steeper, has a few places with exposure, and even has some fifth-class climbing.
It mountaineering terms, you sometimes use both your feet and hands to climb up various steep rocks. While the Western Breach can be done by anyone in good physical shape and does not require ropes, this type of climbing is much more suited for a mountaineer versus someone who just wants a hill hike The last day is steep, the trail is not wide, and you must take the climbing seriously.
Any mountaineer who has climbed Kilimanjaro will tell you to climb the Western Breach, as it truly affords you the best experience. If you are adventurous, we highly recommend the Western Breach.
The dirty secret of Kilimanjaro is that there are loads of people climbing the mountain. During certain times of the year, you can easily be in a camp with 300 to 500-plus people. It is often dirty and loud.
Because the Lemosho route is more expensive, and because the Western Breach requires a certain caliber of guide and outfitter, most people do not use it. Therefore on the Western Breach, you may find a group or two, but not 500 people like the sheer volume of people on the Machame and Marangu routes. On the Western Breach you will hear the quiet mountain; on the Machame route, you will hear all the other people.
The Machame and Marangu routes see more than 80 percent of the climbers, which means you have loads of people on trails, too. It can be a sea of hikers, with hundreds of people at each camp.
Most people want to climb Mt. Kilimanjaro to see the beautiful glaciers at the summit–the ones we hear are melting. Due to their locations and because climbers have been at it for eight hours by the time they summit, the Machame and Marangu routes afford climbers little opportunity to explore.
When you come up the Western Breach, you cross the rim of the mountain and into the inner cone of Kilimanjaro, and therefore can see all the glaciers, from the Northern and Eastern icefields to the Furtwangler Galicer. You can touch the famous Furtwangler Glacier, walk around it, and explore the Ash Pit of the Reusch Crater. Check out Embark’s picture at the Furtwangler glacier.
The highest camp on Mt. Kilimanjaro is Crater Camp, which is best accessed through the Western Breach. It sits at more than 18,000 feet and is a great way to only have a one-hour climb to the summit. If you want to sleep at the summit, then you’re best off climbing through the Western Breach. This camp should only be used by those who take climbing Kilimanjaro serious
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