Mountaineering

In 2011, an Embark group climbed Imja Tse, also known as Island Peak, a 20,305-foot Himalayan “trekking peak.” This doesn’t mean it’s a strict “walk-up,” but it is a challenging but safe summit that can be climbed in just five days. It has a reputation for attracting beginner and expert climbers alike.

Our very own Jim Ronning shot a 360-degree panorama from the summit of Island Peak, so here it is for inspiration. If you love trekking and climbing — if you want to visit Everest Base Camp and climb a Himalayan peak on the same trip — consider climbing Island Peak.

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(This article appears in the May/June issue of Mountaineer Magazine.)

by Donovan Pacholl, Owner, Embark Adventures

What calls the mountaineer to the mountain? For many of us, it is the thrill of the unknown. Breaking through the clouds and up into another atmosphere. Testing our gear, our stamina, our friendships, and our outermost limits and seeing how it all looks when we’ve gone as high as the mountain itself.

If you haven’t climbed outside the country yet, there’s one part of the unknown that still awaits you: not just high country but mysterious places, ancient and untouched cultures, the ultra remote settings so few ever see.

So if you’ve already bagged Mount Rainier, or trekked out into the wilderness to tackle Glacier Peak, may I suggest that you consider climbing a major mountain in another part of the world. International expeditions make for a two-in-one adventure of a lifetime, and are easier to pull off than you might think. Here’s a quick primer to help make any international big-peak dreams come true.

Pick Your Destination

If your aim is to climb a mountain, the world is your oyster, so how do you determine where do you want to go? First, consider what else you might want to do before or after the climb – or that companions might entertain themselves with while you’re climbing. Consider, for example, Africa for wildlife safaris, the Himalayas for culture and trekking, South America for its history, and Europe for its sophistication and relative ease of travel.

Based on my own travel experience, I highly recommend Mount Kilimanaro in Africa, Island Peak in Nepal, Aconcagua in South America, and Mount Blanc or the Matterhorn in the Alps. If you’ve been up Rainier, you can handle any of these peaks.

Research Your Outfitter

For all the peaks I’ve mentioned, you’ll want (and in some cases be legally bound to get) an outfitter. To pick an outfitter, make sure they “get” climbing and aren’t actually a rafting or trekking outfit. Do the research to ensure they are a trusted name, such as interviewing past clients, and make sure they are flexible in planning as well as responsive to your questions and specific needs.

Just as importantly, remember that they impact the community you’ll be visiting, so find out how they interact with the locals. Are they good to their porters? Do they respect and give back to their local communities?

Plan, plan, plan

A good rule of thumb is to plan your climb about a year and a half out to allow for conditioning, finding partners, figuring out money and logistics, and buying and testing your gear.

But remember that much of the work for this kind of trip is mental, so make a commitment to go and then stick with it. Partners can be key here – for accountability, training, companionship, and making it real.

When it comes to money, a good guideline is to expect that your gear, airfare, and the climb will total anywhere from $4,000 to $8,000 per person, depending on where you’re going and for how long. If you don’t have it, make a plan to save for it by the time all fees will come due.

Plan to buy your airfare at least three, and perhaps as many as six or seven, months ahead. Also leave plenty of time to secure your visas and get up to date on all necessary immunizations. You do not want to be worrying about such important logistics the last weeks before departure.

Start your physical training at least six months out, and remember, it’s all about elevation! If you’ve got any peaks nearby, make it a point to trek or climb at altitude as regularly as you’re able.

For a more enriching experience, research the peak and the area you’ll be visiting. Consider getting your own guide books and taking your own introductory language course or pocket dictionary.

Not only is there gear to buy, you also need to give yourself plenty of time to test it and be sure it works for you and the specific demands of your trip. Test and break in all your gear well in advance.

A final important consideration is insurance. You’ll want to think about injuries that could occur and how trip cancellations for various reasons are handled.

Remember the Dream

It’s easy to get bogged down in all the details of planning and general travel logistics. Don’t let the details deter you. A big peak in a foreign land will be a major lifetime event, and it’s one you can share with climbing and non-climbing friends alike. Imagine the bonding that will occur with your group, the winding-down you’ll have on an, say, African safari, or the adventure others can have trekking through the Himalayas as they await your return.

Mountains so often inspire some of our most powerful life experiences. In fact, I proposed to my wife on the slopes of Kilimanjaro. I can’t predict what will happen for you, but I do hope you will combine your climbing and adventure travel dreams, forge ahead, and make them both come true.

A Suggested Timeline

i. Six months out:

1. Finalize your travel dates, including air travel

2. Invite friends/family you’d like to join you

3. Schedule an appointment with your doctor for immunizations

4. Organize and begin your training program

 

ii. Four months out:

1. Purchase your flights (3 to 9 months in advance)

2. Confirm your group

3. Shop for and begin testing your gear

4. Organize your visa

5. Train

 

iii. Two months out:

1. Be sure you’re up to date on all your immunizations

2. Secure travel insurance

3. Keep testing your gear

4. Keep training

 

iv. One month out:

1. Keep training

2. Make sure all logistics are in place

3. Finish purchasing all necessary gear

4. Send final payment to Outfitter

 

v. One week out:

1. Taper training

2. Pack

3. Rest

4. Say goodbye!

 

Donovan Pacholl is the owner and creator of Embark and its adventures. Pacholl has not only organized hundreds of adventure trips around the world, he has also traveled extensively and lead expeditions throughout Nepal, Tibet, Bhutan, and Tanzania, and a number of other countries.

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Ibuprofin eases altitude sickness

Many of us know the effects of altitude sickness all too well–the headaches, nausea, and fatigue can be the difference between reaching the summit and having to turn back.

Good news, then, for the more than 25 percent of the millions of Americans who travel to high elevations each year and will suffer from this condition. It turns out that ibuprofen, that widely available over-the-counter anti-inflammatory medication most often used as a painkiller, may also minimize the effects of altitude on our bodies, according to new research out of Stanford University School of Medicine to be published in the Annals of Emergency Medicine.

At high altitudes, each breath we take contains fewer oxygen molecules due to decreased atmospheric pressure. And while the precise mechanisms that lead to acute mountain sickness are not clearly understood, some research indicates that the condition is the result of a lack of oxygen to the brain causing it to swell with fluids.

Ibuprofen may help reduce that swelling.

For the study, 58 men and 28 women traveled to the White Mountains near Bishop, Calif., and spent the night at 4,100 feet. At 8 a.m., they were given either 600 milligrams of ibuprofen or a placebo before heading up to 11,700 feet. There, at 2 p.m., they were given a second dose and then they hiked up to 12,570 feet, where they received a third dose at 8 p.m. before spending the night on the mountain.

Of the 44 participants who received ibuprofen, 43 percent suffered symptoms of altitude sickness, while 69 percent of the climbers with the placebo suffered symptoms. Ibuprofen, then, reduced the incidence of symptoms by 26 percent.

The authors say that taking more than 600 mg of ibuprofen might “provide more robust prevention,” but that the theoretical benefit of such a move would have to weighed against a possibly increased risk of gastrointestinal and kidney problems in people who may be dehydrated.

Anyone planning high-altitude adventure travel might get a lot out of Embark’s interview with a climber who had to turn back on Kilimanjaro: ‘The mountain decides.’

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Sometimes you hear expressions like “I could do that with one arm behind my back,” but nobody ever really means it. So when we saw this headline — Texas Woman Climbs Mount Everest With One Leg — we stopped everything to read the story.

Well, the more you read, the more impressed you’ll be. Turns out Rhonda Graham is 61 years old, and her leg was amputated due to a staph infection in 1980. She got a prosthetic with pictures of mountains on it, to keep the dream alive in her mind. And by the time she finished the climb, the altitude had taken out most functionality of the leg itself. She pretty much literally did this on one leg.

We think just trekking to Everest Base Camp is amazing, and walking the Khumbu Region a rare adventure for most people. To do any of that, at 61, and/or with one leg, would be a cause for wonder. But to climb Everest? Rhonda says she did it to inspire people, and it sure worked for us at Embark. We love her message: “A leg doesn’t define who you are.”

Next up for Rhonda? She plans to climb Mount Kilimanjaro in July. Go, Rhonda!

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Climbers Amy Mendenhall and Bridget Martin share their photos and stories from climbing the active volcano Ol Doinyo Lengai in Tanzania this past February. Major props to both of them for giving us a view into a truly insane and unique climb. We hope it’s obvious why we recommend it.

Andy Schiestl has masterfully profiled his February Kili climb with Embark. Check out his step-by-step retelling here:

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Arriving in Moshi

February 14th: Everyone got to town alright, we went on a tour around Moshi in the morning. Stopped at the Kilimanjaro coffee company again, there was coffee brewing class going on and a guy from Portland was one of the instructors, amusingly enough. Toured around the market (first the big market, then the slightly smaller more spread out one. Got to be a bit overwhelming, I split off to head back to the hotel for lunch. After a briefing that evening, went through my bag with Freddie and confirmed that I had the right gear.

Tree Camp / Miti Mikubwa

February 15th: Off we go! Stopped for a bathroom break on the drive up along dirt roads, had a couple of Masai come up and ask if they could get a ride (they weren’t going to the same place we were). It was kind of amusing to see one of them in traditional Masai garb chatting on a cell phone. Stopped to pick up porters (37 of them!) and get gear distributed at check-in station, then proceeded to the trailhead along a road that started out sketchy and quickly escalated to hair-raising (banged into a tree a couple of times trying to get past it on muddy ruts). We began climbing through the jungle from about 6000 feet at about 2 in the afternoon (with monkeys hooting in the background). Got to Big Tree camp just before it started pouring, thankfullly the mess tent and our tents were situated already. Dinner was amazing, much better than any of us expected. The whole scope of the group was pretty amazing, 58 people in total (cooks, porters, guides, “juice machine” operators, and the 12 climbers) heading up the mountain.

Tree Camp to Shira One

February 16th: Woke up at Big Tree camp at 9000 feet, and it was raining. It rained pretty much all of the previous night, and I was looking forward to a rather wet trip, but by breakfast it was only misting, and it cleared up about an hour into our hike. We had some of the crew come by with tea or coffee for us in our tents, by the end of our trip we had gotten use to the “Good morning! How did you sleep?” that they would greet us with. Cleared out of the jungle at around 10,000 feet, it was very noticable and happened within minutes on the trail. Got our first good view of Kilimanjaro coming over a ridge line onto the Shira plateau. It looked big, far away, and very snow covered. Stopped at Shira 1 at about 11500 feet, nice little river running nearby and great view of the mountain when it was clear. I started taking Diamox this evening, since I was getting close to the edge of the altitudes I was used to going to.

Shira One to Shira Two

February 17th: Got up and began trekking across the Shira plateau to Shira 2 camp. Got a mild headache while ascending to the next camp (at 13000 feet), but went away shortly after we got there. Fairly easy day, not much elevation gain and into next camp not long after noon. Had some time to explore the area, there was a very interesting creek with several waterfalls right near camp. Shortly before dinner, several people from our group ran into another group who was heading down without attempting to summit, they had multiple horror stories about icy conditions, other groups turning back, and groups of porters that had gotten snow blindness. Many people in our group were concerned, but Freddie (our lead guide) said not to worry and that we’d see what things looked like at lava tower when we climb there the next day.

Shira Two to Lava Tower

February 18th: Up in the morning and began hiking to Lava Tower at 15,000 feet. We start encountering snow at a little shy of 14,000 I would guess. The weather throughout the day was ridiculous, went from sunny and warm to mild hail and back to sunny again within 10 minutes. The temperature difference when the sun was out was incredible, at one point after we arrived at Lava tower, I was lying in my tent in just shorts (at 15,000 feet) and was almost too warm. We also had the incredible experience of looking down at the top of thunderheads. I felt fine when we got into camp (on the border of a headache again, a lot of people experienced that), but started feeling really tired just before dinner, and just crashed afterwards (on the plus side, got 11 hours of sleep). Jenny in our group had a pretty serious stomach bug as well, thankfully we had the rest day on the 19th.

Lava Tower

February 19th: When I get up in the morning, I try walking on the snow, it’s pretty solid after multiple warm days, but the surface is excellent, not slick at all. As part of the rest day, we hike up to Arrow glacier (about a 2 hour hike up) and get our first good view of the route up through the western breach. It’s looking pretty promising, and other groups are heading up ahead of us as well. I’m feeling pretty good about the climb at this point, the snow level appears to be receding and the forecast looks positive.

Arrow Glacier

February 20th: In the middle of the night when I get up to go to the batroom (drinking 5 liters of water a day will do that), I start developing a stomachache. Which gets pretty bad, takes me about 2.5 hours to get back to sleep, and when I’m waking up still not feeling too great, not much of an appetite. Jenny is better, but now her husband Eric seems to have the same thing. Just before we get started I’ve got some minor nausea, Amy, Bridget, and Christy hit me with a variety of remedies (Tums, pepto, acid reducers, ginger stuff) and the combination of everything seems to help quite a bit, still feel a little off but not bad. We head up to Arrow glacier and go through a safety talk, then after dinner everyone tries to get some sleep.

Arrow Glacier to Crater Rim to Uhuru Peak

February 21st: Summit day part 1. They start waking everyone up at 11:00pm, I woke up at 10:30pm (due to cold) finished packing and gearing up (3 insulating layers and 2 wind shells on legs, 3 insulating layers and a shell on my body, 2 glove liners and a shell on hands. From the sound of it I got more sleep than just about anyone else, went to sleep right at sunset so I got 3.5 hours. Unfortunately the wind has come up a bit, pretty cold out. We head out at midnight. The wind and cold are a little nasty (my fingers are occasionally getting numb until I warm them up, other layers holding up okay), but other than that conditions are pretty good, snow solid and good steps kicked in. Everyone is starting to feel the altitude after the first couple of hours, about 2-3 hours in Christy starts getting really dizzy and passes out, Celia ahead of me starts picking up a cough, I hear Alex is starting to get a little dizzy as well. Route is turning out to be more exposed than I expected, pretty narrow as well (really glad for the steps). About 2 hours in I stop looking up because it’s too disheartening. About 3 hours in, I stop looking down because the exposure is starting to get disturbing. About 4 hours in I stop looking at anything immediately in front of me, it looked like we were almost there, but someone asked and it was another 2 hours up. My camelback freezes up about an hour and a half in, my nalgenes freeze up to the point I can’t drink from them about 5 hours in, all my snacks are too cold to eat (except for the GU, it’s an extremely thick paste). “The only way out is up” becomes a mantra to me. We clear the crater lip a little before 6:00am, the wind starts blasting us (I’d guess sustained 25-30mph with gusts substantially higher), but I can already see the sky lightening.

Uhuru Peak to Mweka Camp

February 21st: Summit day part 2. As we clear the crater rim, we stop briefly but begin moving almost immediately to get to crater camp and out of the wind. Things are lightening up and we start moving out of the wind, I start laughing with tears in my eyes, from some combination of watching the sunrise and relief at making it to the crater rim. Christy starts heading down after they get to camp, she’s showing a lot of symptoms of rather serious altitude issues. Peter (her fiance) goes with her, as do Alex (he feels better a bit later, but we’re already making the last push for the summit) and Eric and Jenny. The remaining 7 of us and two guides continue. The last run up (even though it’s only about 500 feet up) is in a few ways harder than the climb up to the crater rim, we’re barely moving and I feel like I’m running, and I can tell I don’t have much left. We finally get to the top and congratulate each other, spend about 20 minutes taking pictures. The altitude is really having some interesting effects, standing still I’m taking more than a breath a second, and the side of my hand facing the sun in just a liner glove feels warm the instant it’s in the sun. I start bonking not long after we leave the summit, and about an hour later I actually start getting altitude sickness on the descent. We’re still at about 17000 feet, and I’m dehydrated, have barely eaten anything, and I’m 3 hours past when I should have taken my last diamox. I fix all three issues and continue descending, within 15 minutes I feel fine (although tired). We stop at 15000 feet for lunch, unforunately there was a miscommunication and our lunch is down at 12500. We take a half hour break to recover, then continue. After lunch, we continue descending to camp at 10000 feet, and arrive a little after 3pm (that’s a 15 hour day for those keeping track, almost all of it in motion). I’m so tired I sleep through dinner, wake up to brush my teeth, than go back to sleep.

Mweka Camp to Park Gate

February 22nd. Finish the descent down, goes pretty quickly. Almost feels anti-climatic, it took almost a week to ascend and only a day and a half down. Head back to town and clean up, turn in some laundry since heading out on safari the next day, and hang out at the pool for about an hour (have a couple of beers, local beer Tusker is an excellent lager) go out for dinner with the whole gang. I break out the schnapps from Pension Christina and share with everyone (turns out quite smooth and tasty). Back to the hotel and finish packing up for safari, ready to go.

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These are the new tents Embark will be offering on all trips in Africa and Asia moving forward. The tent is a Mountain Hardware Trango 3.1–meaning it sleeps 3, although we only put only 2 people in each.

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